Early Spring in Greece: Athens
Food, sights and creative finds over a few days in Greece's capital for fellow first-timers.
After five days on the very raw and natural Kythnos Island, we headed to Athens, a city with so much buzz in the travel and culture spaces over the last few years, a place I’d been desperate to visit for a long time.
I’d heard and read about the new creative energy pulsing through Athens, some calling it ‘the new Berlin’, a haven for artists and creatives drawn by low rents and cost of living — a ripple effect of the 2008 recession from what I understand.
I wanted to see and feel at least a little of this new spirit for myself, and see all the relics of ancient Greece too, even if I only had a few days in the city.
While a few days in a city does not an expert make, what I do bring to the table is obsessive pre-trip research and a pretty cool address book I crowdsourced from Instagram and IRL friends in advance (Google map link at the end!).
Arriving in Athens, we couldn’t help compare it to Rome with ancient ruins everywhere you look. Unlike the Eternal City though, here the ancient monuments are casually thrown in amongst the modern, hipster coffee shops, galleries and bars. The surrounding mountains encircle the city, always within view.
All these elements together felt like the perfect visual representation for how layered and alive this city feels.
Our first dinner was at Dopios. We came for the gluten-free artisanal bread (from gluten-free bakery, Asterisque), but were floored by the fresh, warm dolmades making us feel like we’d never really eaten proper Greek food before. We sampled more of their modern takes on classic Greek dishes and this place moved quickly into the slot of best meal of the trip.
Wandering around the city after dinner, we found inventive gelato at Kokkion; I had the "milk chocolate with 42% cocoa, orange and pepper”. It wasn’t the creamy gelato I’m used to at home in Italy but the flavours were something new to me for sure.
The first stop for me on our first full day in the city had to be brunch, probably the thing I miss most living in a small town in Italy.
We headed to The Makers, very hipster, not very Greek admittedly, but with all the good things I miss like matcha, coffee, gluten free avocado toast… you know the drill. It was exactly what I was craving.
You can’t go to Athens for the first time without seeing the Acropolis so this was our next stop. On the ascent up the hill, at 11am the heat was already setting in, as well the kind of queues that make you want to turn around and go home.
Luckily, a hot tip from some fellow line-dwellers saved the day: once we reached the front of the line we booked our entrance tickets for much later in the day, at 6pm, when we were told the crowds thinned and the temperatures dropped.
We were told you could skip this whole queue thing and simply book online (do it in advance though, not on the day) so I’d recommend that.
Next stop: Monastiraki Flea Markets perusing record shops, used book stores and antique stalls, doing our best to dodge the souvenir tourist junk that made the ‘flea’ in flea market feel a bit like an exaggeration at times.
Down a cool little alleyway, we happened upon Norman Bar, owned and run by two amazing women from Crete. We ordered iced matchas with coconut milk, again not so Greek, but so good. They do cocktails too, the whole place had a really good vibe.
Sometimes you can google map and plan all you like but the best places can be the ones you happen upon by chance.
I later read about more authentic markets like the Varvakios (produce) Markets, and the Kypseli Municipal Market showcasing a small number of local artists and handicrafts.
Kypseli is a bit of a hike to get to and not that big on a regular day. They often hold Sunday markets and other special events though with a larger number of makers and artists, check for upcoming events here (translate to english in your browser).
Lunch was at Feyrouz for soup and savoury pastries like pide stuffed to the brim, across the alleyway they serve sweets and coffee too, all from Lebanon, Turkey and the Eastern Mediterranean region. Apart from the soup served for lunch, find more gluten-free options like hearty salads and rice dishes for dinner.
We strolled through the charming streets of Plaka (perfect for a mid-afternoon coffee or drink) on our way to the Acropolis for golden hour.
By then, the crowds had thinned out as promised. We sat next to a man sketching the Acropolis from outside the entrance, awaiting our 6pm entry. It felt peaceful, not crowded, and we were so glad we came back later in the day.
Entering the site of the Acropolis high above the city, it was as grand and inspiring as I thought it would be, with plenty of space to wander and find your own corner to imagine life and these monumental temples back in the era of Ancient Greece.
From up on our hill, I spotted another vantage point nearby, Areopagus Hill, with lots of people perched on the giant rock for sundown. I’d definitely plan a little bring-your-own sunset picnic here next time with great views of the Acropolis, from the outside.
The next day, we hired a scooter (from here) and drove 30 minutes out to a beach near Glyfada our friends recommended — a naturist spot with clear water, earthy rock formations, and surprisingly warm sea even for this time of year. Find the beach here!
I couldn’t believe such an untouched, natural beach could be found so close to the city.
We kept our clothes on, but it seemed to be the kind of nudist beach where no one minded if you were clothed or not.
We packed enough supplies to last the whole day and eased into our first proper sunbathing and swim session of the year. We both forgot our cameras but it was probably for the best: I don’t think nudists appreciate having their picture taken.
With only a few days in Athens, I really wish I’d had more time to explore, but it’s always good to have something to go back for.
Next time I’m in Athens, I’ll make sure to:
Book the Into Stoas Walking Tour by small publishing house Desired Landscapes for a local deep dive into the city and its most authentic pockets, and to visit their tiny bookshop.
Visit the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture housed in the former home of an art collector.
Visit the National Archeological Museum.
Have sunset drinks at chill rooftop bar Couleur Locale.
Taste authentic souvlaki at O Thanasis.
Sample traditional Greek dishes at Avli.
Catch a movie at one of Athens’ many outdoor cinemas popular in the warmer months, like this one.
Peruse ceramics from local makers around Greece and the islands at Mon Coin.
Pick up some handpainted ceramics and clothing at naked summers studio.
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Planning your own trip? Here’s my Athens Google Map with everywhere I went (and more addresses I wish I had time for).
This post is open and free so please share it around if you found some valuable Athens addresses and tips here!
As always, if you have Athens recommendations to share, I’d love to hear from you in the comments and I’ll add yours to the Google Map!
Love this and your pics as always! Saving this - I've been dying to go to Greece for so long now. Did you find that it was easy to communicate? Did you learn some basic Greek?
Don't skip the neighbourhoods of Pangrati and Mets. Pangrati, where I lived for two years, tempts with its subtly elevated food scene—think local, a bit edgy, always surprising. Mets, on the other hand, charms with its graceful residential architecture; stroll the streets and you'll feel the quiet pulse of authentic Athens. Craving a dose of modernity? Head south to the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Library, a luminous landmark designed by Renzo Piano, where glass and green blend seamlessly into the city’s future.